Screen printing on textiles is a technique known for its high durability and quality results in the textile industry. Whether using water-based or plastisol ink, achieving a successful print requires proper preparation and the right equipment. In this article, we summarize the 5 fundamental steps you should pay attention to in order to achieve high-quality results in textile screen printing.
1. Choosing the Right Mesh
The foundation of screen printing is the mesh selection. The mesh count directly affects ink deposit, detail level, and print clarity. Even if you use the highest quality screen printing ink, an incorrect mesh selection will negatively affect your results.
Mesh recommendations based on usage area:
24–77 mesh (approx. T24–T90 EU standard):
- Plastisol prints requiring high opacity
- Glitter, metallic, or high-viscosity inks
90–120 mesh (approx.T90–T120 EU standard) :
- Standard textile screen printing
- Designs requiring both detail and opacity
The tighter the mesh, the finer and more detailed the print will be. Therefore, the type of design and the structure of the ink used should be defining factors in mesh selection.
Golden Tip:
Choose your mesh based on the type of ink you will use, as each ink has different printing permeability.
2. Quality Exposure and Artwork Preparation
When asking “How is screen printing done?”, the most critical step is proper exposure. The better the stencil, the clearer and more accurate the print will be.
Points to consider:
- Apply the emulsion evenly and smoothly.
- Adjust exposure time according to the type of emulsion and light intensity.
- Use high-resolution films or positives for fine-lined designs.
- Check for detail loss during the stencil washout process.
Golden Tip:
Use a step wedge or perform an exposure test to confirm exposure accuracy. Even this small step significantly increases print quality.
3. Choosing the Right Ink for Printing
Ink selection directly affects the softness, texture, durability, and washfastness of the print. Not every ink delivers the same result on every fabric, making proper ink selection essential.
Types of screen printing inks and their uses:
Water-based inks:
- Soft-hand prints
- Breathable and comfortable results on natural fabrics
Plastisol inks:
- High opacity
- Ideal for sportswear and durability-focused jobs
- Excellent results on dark fabrics
Pigment inks:
- Economical solution for light-colored fabrics
- Cost-effective for high-quantity productions
Effect inks (glitter, metallic, puff, fluorescent):
- For decorative and special prints
Discharge inks:
- Vintage appearance
- Lightweight, breathable prints
Golden Tip:
Adjust the ink viscosity according to the size of the print. If necessary, optimize viscosity using thinner, retarder, or additives.
4. Using the Correct Squeegee
The squeegee is one of the most important tools that determines the quality of screen printing. It directly affects ink deposit, print texture, and detail sharpness.
Squeegee hardness (shore) recommendations:
60 shore (soft):
- Deposits more ink
- Increases opacity
70 shore (medium):
- Ideal for general textile screen printing
80 shore (hard):
- Perfect for fine-detail designs
The recommended squeegee angle is between 45° and 75°. Worn squeegee edges distort the print, so regular sharpening is essential.
Golden Tip:
Use softer squeegees for high-opacity prints, and harder squeegees for detail-focused prints.
5. Curing (Fixation) and Final Check
Curing is the most important stage that determines the durability of the screen print. Without proper curing, the print may be damaged even after the first wash.
Curing recommendations:
Plastisol inks:
- 150–170°C
- 1–2 minutes
- Full cure must be achieved
Water-based inks:
- Fully dry first
- Then apply heat fixation
The airflow, temperature balance, and belt speed of the tunnel dryer all affect print quality.
Golden Tip:
The oven temperature and the actual fabric temperature are not the same. Use an infrared thermometer to measure the print surface directly.
Conclusion: A Proper System Is Essential for Professional Screen Printing
Screen printing is a holistic process that consists of mesh selection, correct exposure, proper ink selection, squeegee hardness, and accurate curing. By following these 5 golden rules, you can achieve both wash-resistant and professional-quality prints.
